We visited Albania – the land of the Double Eagle – also of Dua Lipa and Mother Teresa – for two weeks in July 2024.
Traditionally Europe’s poorest country, Albania suffered through a brutal communist dictatorship before achieving their freedom in 1991. However, the people have a great tradition of hospitality and are friendly and welcoming. It’s a very tolerant place. English is widespread. Their long history is a mix of Illyrian, Byzantine and Ottoman, with a side of Greek and Italian, and the food is a delicious blend of the same.
During our stay, we visited historical cities of Kruja, Durrës, Permet and Korça, charming UNESCO-inscribed cities of Berat and Gjirokaster, and Pogradec, the largest Albanian city on magnificent Lake Ohrid.
Unfortunately, our trip coincided with the arrival of a massive heatwave from the African Sahara, and it was oppressively hot and humid – around 100 degrees. It was like a Texas summer but with far less robust air conditioning. Definitely come here – but in September!
What to See in Albania
Tirana
Tirana is a cool capital with lots of new and avant-garde buildings, museums, bars and restaurants and monuments to their long and sometimes dark past. See our post on exploring Tirana.
Kruja
An easy day trip from Tirana, Kruja is best-known as the birthplace of General Skanderbeg. The museum dedicated to this legendary hero of Albania is well-done and should not be missed. Its terrace affords panoramic views over the region.
Durrës
Another town easily reached from Tirana, coastal Durrës is the site of the Balkan’s largest Roman amphitheater, which once held over 15,000 spectators. It was built in the 2nd century AD but not discovered until the 1960s.
Berat
Also known as the “city of 1,000 windows” thanks to its Mangalem neighborhood of traditional Ottoman houses, Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Gjirokastër
Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Gjirokaster in southern Albania is known as “stone town” because of its traditional houses topped with grey stone slab roofs. The town itself is incredibly charming, with many narrow cobbled streets comprising its old bazaar and the magnificent Gjirokaster Castle looming over from atop the hill.
Don’t miss the famous and popular Blue Eye spring and swimming hole less than an hour south of Gjirokaster.
Përmet
Situated on the Vjosa River, Permet is known as the “city of towers.” Just outside of town, you can find the Bënjë Thermal Baths adjacent to the Ottoman Katiu Bridge.
Korça
Pretty Korça is has Albania’s largest orthodox church.
Pearls of the Adriatic Coast: Vlorë, Ksamil and Sarandë
Albania is increasingly well-known for its beautiful beaches and southern towns on the Adriatic coast. Not far from Corfu in Greece, the Albanian Riviera offers a chance to discover these beautiful places with clear blue water. Nearby Butrint National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Pogradec
The largest Albanian city on magnificent Lake Ohrid, Pogradec is very popular with Albanians in the summertime. In addition to the beach, there is a boardwalk with bars and restaurants, all framed by distant mountains.